How to tell if your makeup has expired (PAO symbol, smell, texture) and how long each product lasts
The short answer
Check three things. First, the printed expiry or “use before” date, which Indian rules require on cosmetic labels. Second, the PAO symbol (an open jar with “6M”, “12M” and so on), which tells you how many months a product lasts once opened. Third, your own senses: a changed smell, colour or texture means it goes, whatever the date says. As a rough guide from the American Academy of Dermatology, mascara and liquid eyeliner last about 3 months once opened, and powder eyeshadow about 6 to 9 months.
Most of us replace makeup when it runs out or when we get bored of it. With eye products in particular, that is often too late. Makeup does not just lose performance as it ages. It picks up bacteria and fungi every time you use it, and the preservatives that keep those in check break down over time. In Indian heat and humidity, a forgotten kajal or cream shadow in a handbag ages faster than the same product in a cool drawer.
Here is how to read the dates, what the symbols mean, how long each type of product lasts, and the signs that override the label.
Why makeup goes off
The US Food and Drug Administration lists the main causes in plain terms. Dipping fingers into a product adds microorganisms, preservatives can break down over time, and applicators, especially mascara wands, are exposed to bacteria and fungi every time you use them. Emulsions can separate, products can dry out and crack, and temperature changes, sunlight and air can change colour, texture and smell.
The FDA also points out that eye-area cosmetics tend to have shorter shelf lives, and may cause eye infections that can be serious. That is why the eye products in your kit deserve the strictest rules.
Reading the dates on the pack
The expiry or “use before” date (India)
In India, the Cosmetics Rules, 2020 (Rule 34) require labels to carry a “use before” or expiry date (month and year), or an “expiry XX months from manufacture” statement alongside the date of manufacture. CDSCO defines “use before” or “date of expiry” as the date up to which the cosmetic shall retain its characteristics as per standards at the storage condition stated on the label.
Two things to note:
- This date assumes the product is stored as the label says. Weeks in a hot car or a steamy bathroom shorten it.
- It mostly describes the unopened product. Once you open it, the clock that matters is usually the PAO, below.
If the label shows “expiry 36 months from manufacture”, add 36 months to the “Mfg” date and write the result on the pack with a marker. For more on where these details sit on Indian packaging, see how to read a cosmetics label in India.
The PAO symbol (open jar)
The Period After Opening symbol is a small drawing of an open jar with a number and “M”, such as 6M, 12M or 24M. It means the product is good for that many months after you open it. Dermatologist Cynthia Bailey describes it to the American Academy of Dermatology as “a jar with an open lid and a number next to the letter ‘M'”, where the number is how many months the product should last once opened.
The symbol comes from EU law. Under the EU Cosmetics Regulation, products with a minimum durability of more than 30 months do not need a “best before” date, but must instead show the period after opening for which the product is safe to use, using the open-jar symbol. That is why imported products, and Indian brands that also export, often show the PAO even where it is not the main local requirement.
The PAO only works if you know when you opened something. The simplest habit is to write the opening month on the pack with a permanent marker or a small sticker.
When the two disagree
Use whichever comes first. A mascara with a 2028 expiry date and a 6M PAO, opened in January, is done by July. An unopened shadow past its expiry date should not be used just because it was never opened.
How long each product lasts once opened
The American Academy of Dermatology publishes general guidelines for when to throw away makeup, while noting there are no set rules and other sources may differ slightly:
| Product | AAD guideline |
|---|---|
| Mascara, liquid eyeliner | 3 months |
| Liquid eyeshadow, cream blush, BB cream, lip gloss, lip balm, lip plumper | 6 months |
| Powder eyeshadow | 6–9 months |
| Liquid foundation, concealer | 1 year |
| Lipstick, lip liner, brow powder | 2 years |
| Pencil eyeliner (sharpened regularly), powder blush, mineral powders | 2–3 years |
Points that are not on the chart but follow from the same logic (our guidance, not the AAD’s):
- Kajal and kohl pencils behave like pencil liners if you sharpen them regularly. Twist-up kajal sticks cannot be sharpened, so the tip that touches your waterline is never refreshed. Treat them closer to a liquid liner and replace them sooner.
- Cream and mousse eyeshadows are not listed separately. Since you dip fingers into them and they contain liquids, the AAD’s 6-month figure for liquid eyeshadow is a sensible reference, unless the PAO says otherwise.
For mascara, the AAD quotes dermatologist Dara Spearman: “The lifespan of mascara is three months for good reason”. She cites a study that found Staph aureus bacteria in mascara after three months of use. The FDA notes that manufacturers usually recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase.
Signs that override the date
Dates are estimates. Your senses are the final check. The AAD’s list of signs that makeup has spoiled includes products that start to clump, change consistency, crumble or fall apart, smell bad, look dry and flaky or runny, change colour, or feel different on your skin.
Smell
Sniff a product when it is new, so you know its baseline. A sour, rancid or “crayon-like” smell, or any musty note, means oils have oxidised or something is growing. Lipsticks and cream products show this first.
Texture
- Mascara: dry, clumpy or stringy. The FDA says plainly: if mascara becomes dry, do not add water or saliva to moisten it, because that introduces bacteria.
- Foundation and concealer: separation that does not mix back with a shake, or a watery layer on top.
- Powders: a hard, shiny crust on top (“hardpan”) is usually skin oil from fingers or brushes. You can sometimes scrape it off, but a crumbling or chalky powder has had its day.
- Creams and mousses: dry, cracked or rubbery surface, or a gritty feel where it used to be smooth.
Colour and appearance
Any visible spots, fuzz or discolouration means bin it immediately. Foundation that has turned darker or orange has oxidised.
How your skin reacts
New stinging, itching, redness or bumps from a product you have used happily before are a strong sign it has changed. Stop using it.
After an eye infection
This one is not optional. The AAD says to toss any eye makeup you used while you had an eye infection. The FDA adds that you should stop using all eye-area cosmetics, talk to your health care provider, and throw away those you were using when the infection occurred. That includes mascara, kajal, liner and any cream shadow you applied with your fingers.
Making makeup last as long as it should
The AAD recommends these habits:
- Store cosmetics in a dry, clean space at room temperature, out of direct sunlight. In practice that means not on a sunny windowsill, not in the bathroom, and not in a parked car.
- Wash your hands and face before applying makeup.
- Never share products you put directly on skin or lashes.
- Close caps and lids tightly after each use. This matters even more in humid months.
- Keep brushes and sponges clean. The AAD quotes a dermatologist recommending brush cleaning every 7 to 10 days and sponge cleaning after every use.
The FDA also warns against products re-sold online or at flea markets, which may be past their shelf life, used, diluted or counterfeit. Heavily discounted “clearance” listings with no visible expiry date deserve suspicion for exactly this reason.
If you are restocking eye products for the monsoon, our guide to eye makeup that stays put in humid weather covers which formats hold up. If you are wondering why an old shimmer shadow suddenly feels gritty, our explainer on mica in makeup covers what those particles are, and shimmer vs glitter vs metallic vs satin explains how the finishes differ.
FAQ
Is expired makeup dangerous?
It can be. The AAD says old makeup can irritate skin and can cause infections, including eye infections, because bacteria and mould grow in it over time. Eye products carry the highest risk.
What does “12M” on my moisturiser or lipstick mean?
That is the Period After Opening symbol. The product is meant to be used within 12 months of opening.
Does unopened makeup expire?
Yes. The printed expiry or “use before” date applies whether or not you have opened it, and it assumes the product was stored as the label directs.
Can I extend a mascara’s life by adding water or eye drops?
No. The FDA specifically warns against adding water, or worse, saliva, to dried mascara, because it introduces bacteria. Replace it.
My powder eyeshadow is two years old but looks fine. Can I keep it?
The AAD guideline for powder eyeshadow is 6 to 9 months. Powders are lower risk than liquids, but if it has been used often with fingers or unwashed brushes, replace it.